The Deadstock Dilemma: Sustainable Savior or Just a Trendy Band-Aid?

As the fashion industry grapples with mounting sustainability concerns, an increasing number of brands are turning to deadstock materials as a solution to textile waste.

 Once regarded as unsellable surplus, these excess fabrics are now being repurposed into limited-edition collections, offering a more circular approach to production. However, as the demand for deadstock rises, questions persist over whether this trend is a scalable long-term solution or a short-term fix that merely repackages existing waste.

The shift towards deadstock fabric is being driven by both economic and environmental pressures. According to the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, the fashion industry produces approximately 92 million tonnes of textile waste annually. By utilising existing surplus materials, brands can significantly reduce their environmental footprint while lowering production costs. A 2023 report by GlobalData estimated that the deadstock market is set to grow by 15% annually, driven by increasing consumer awareness and regulatory pressure.

Luxury brands and independent designers alike are capitalising on deadstock’s potential. London-based label RÆBURN has built its reputation on reworking military surplus fabrics into high-fashion pieces, while contemporary brands such as Mara Hoffman and Christy Dawn incorporate deadstock into their collections as part of their sustainability ethos. Even larger players like Stella McCartney have begun exploring deadstock sourcing to complement their existing commitment to sustainable materials. Digital platforms such as The Fabric Store and Queen of Raw have also emerged, facilitating access to high-quality deadstock fabrics for designers and brands looking to adopt this approach.

Despite its benefits, deadstock fashion presents several challenges. One of the key limitations is supply inconsistency. Unlike conventional textile manufacturing, which allows for large-scale production runs, deadstock availability is often unpredictable, making it difficult for brands to rely on surplus materials for core collections. Additionally, the origins of deadstock are not always transparent—some fabrics marketed as surplus may have been deliberately overproduced to meet sustainability trends rather than genuinely salvaged from excess inventory.

"Deadstock is often seen as an eco-friendly solution, but the reality is more complex," 

says Dr. Andrew Brooks, author of Clothing Poverty and senior lecturer at King's College London. "There are cases where surplus fabrics are intentionally produced under the guise of sustainability, which raises concerns about whether this model genuinely reduces waste or perpetuates overproduction."

Brands working directly with deadstock suppliers offer a different perspective. "We've seen a shift in how brands approach surplus fabrics," says Stephanie Benedetto, CEO of Queen of Raw. "Many brands are moving towards transparency and long-term planning, integrating deadstock into core collections rather than treating it as a one-off sustainability initiative."

The business viability of deadstock fashion also raises concerns. While brands using deadstock can market their collections as environmentally friendly, this model does not address the root cause of overproduction in the industry. Critics argue that without systemic changes in textile manufacturing, deadstock remains a reactive solution rather than a proactive one. Some fashion businesses are tackling this challenge by integrating deadstock into broader circular strategies, such as upcycling initiatives and resale collaborations, to create a more holistic approach to waste reduction.

Consumer interest in deadstock fashion is growing, with resale platforms and limited-edition drops generating significant engagement. According to a Bain & Company report, luxury consumers are increasingly looking for sustainable alternatives, with 60% prioritising brands that implement waste-reduction strategies. A 2023 Statista survey found that 48% of Gen Z shoppers prefer brands with sustainable materials, further driving demand for deadstock fashion. However, as sustainability concerns evolve, the question remains whether deadstock will become a long-term industry standard or remain a short-lived solution.

Comparatively, other circular fashion solutions such as rental and resale have experienced notable success. ThredUp’s 2023 Resale Report estimates that the second hand market will reach $77 billion by 2025, outpacing fast fashion growth. Meanwhile, rental models from companies like Rent the Runway and HURR have introduced alternatives to constant new production. While deadstock offers an immediate waste-reduction solution, it lacks the scalability of these other circular models.

As deadstock continues to gain traction, brands must navigate the balance between sustainability messaging and genuine impact. While repurposing excess materials offers an immediate reduction in textile waste, it does not eliminate the industry’s reliance on high-volume production cycles. As Dr. Patsy Perry, a senior lecturer in fashion marketing at Manchester Metropolitan University, notes: 

"Deadstock is a step forward, but it’s not a cure-all. The industry must rethink production systems to truly achieve sustainability."

The future of deadstock fashion depends on its ability to integrate into a broader circular economy. Can the industry move beyond surface-level sustainability efforts and address the root causes of overproduction? If deadstock is to be more than a passing trend, it must be paired with systemic changes in manufacturing, better transparency in sourcing, and a commitment to reducing textile waste at every stage of production. Only then can it transition from a niche sustainability fix to a fundamental part of fashion’s evolving business model.